Scotland + London | Edinburgh · Sunderland · Scottish Highlands · London · Richmond
If you're anything like us, planning a big international trip can be almost as exciting as taking it — and also completely overwhelming.
Where do you stay? How many nights do you need? And if you're flying all the way to the UK, how do you fit in everything you want to see without spending your entire vacation running from one place to the next?
For Rob's 50th birthday trip, we built our itinerary around four things we'd been talking about for years: Scottish whisky, the Highlands, English Premier League football, and Harry Potter. Our goal wasn't to see everything. It was to put together a trip that gave us a real mix of sightseeing, unique experiences, great food, a little luxury — and time to actually enjoy it.
So here's what we did. Steal it, change it, or use it as a starting point for your own UK adventure.
Affiliate Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links. If you book or purchase through them, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only share places and experiences we have experienced first hand, and all opinions are our own.
At a Glance
Trip length: 9 nights / 9 days (including overnight flight)
Countries: United Kingdom — Scotland & England
Main destinations: Edinburgh · Sunderland · Scottish Highlands · London · Richmond
Travel style: Value-driven with intentional splurges
Trip focus: Premier League football · Scottish Highlands · London · food & experiences · Harry Potter
Time of year: September
Travelers: Two adults
Travel requirements: Passports + UK ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization)
Our Route
✈️ Newark (EWR) → Heathrow → Edinburgh
🏴 Edinburgh
⚽ Edinburgh → Sunderland
🏴 Sunderland → Edinburgh
🏔️ Scottish Highlands day trip
🚂 Edinburgh → London (LNER)
🪄 London — Harry Potter Studio Tour
👑 London — Queen Elizabeth II exhibit
⚽ Richmond — Ted Lasso locations
✈️ London Heathrow → Newark (EWR)
Prices noted are what we paid and may vary based on timing and availability.
Day 0: Overnight Flight to Edinburgh
Newark → Heathrow → Edinburgh | British Airways Premium Economy
Since this was a milestone birthday trip, we splurged on Premium Economy for the overnight flight — and it was worth every penny. For a transatlantic overnight, the ROI on the upgrade is high. You're not paying for Business Class, but you're getting enough comfort to actually sleep, which means you arrive ready to go instead of wrecked.
What Premium Economy includes on British Airways:
Separate World Traveller Plus check-in
Early boarding
2 checked bags
Significantly more legroom and seat recline — the real value on an overnight flight
Cozy quilt and pillow
Amenities bag
Sparkling wine on boarding
A proper meal with wine
Our advice: Book the back row of the Premium Economy section. It feels cozier, and you can recline without a second thought.
Day 1: Arrive Edinburgh — Royal Mile, First Impressions and Beating Jetlag
After landing at Edinburgh Airport, we took the Airlink 100 bus into the city centre. No booking required — just follow the signs to the stop and pay when you board. It costs £6 per adult and takes about 30 minutes. Easy, affordable, and it drops you right in the heart of the city.
Where We Stayed
Hilton Edinburgh Carlton (Royal Mile)
We chose it for the location, and the location delivered. Walking distance to Edinburgh Waverley station, Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, and the Scotch Whisky Experience. The room was spacious with a beautiful city view, and there's a bar, restaurant, and whisky shop on site.
One thing to know: depending on the route you take out of the train station, getting to the room could require hauling luggage up a circular staircase of around 90 steps — and the stairwell has a distinct smell. Not exactly the romantic Scottish welcome we imagined, but every trip has its moments.
Our advice to fight jetlag (2 parts):
Part 1 - Prior to leaving, download the Timeshifter app - we have used this many times and it is an incredible tool to avoid jetlag if you follow the guidance. After you enter all your flights, it will alert you when to see light, when to avoid light, and when to sleep. The science behind how light affects your circadian rhythms is fascinating - and it works!
Part 2 - If you're arriving early from an overnight flight, book the hotel for check in the night before you arrive. This adds a night to your hotel stay, but you don’t have to wait until 3pm to get into your room when you arrive at 9am. Our room was ready when we arrived, which felt like a genuine luxury after a red-eye.
Exploring the Royal Mile
Our first Edinburgh goal was simple: walk, explore, and stay awake long enough to reset our sleep schedule.
There's something about arriving in a new city and just wandering without a strict agenda that makes it feel like the trip has officially started. The Royal Mile delivered exactly that — cobblestones, centuries-old architecture, and the kind of atmosphere that doesn't need explanation.
Lunch: Royal Mile Tavern
We went straight for local: Scottish egg, bangers and mash, a messy hot dog, and Guinness. Service wasn’t quick, but we chalked it up to part of the European dining experience!
Greyfriars Kirkyard
A Harry Potter stop hiding in plain sight. This is the real cemetery where scenes from Godric's Hollow were filmed — and where you'll find actual gravestones bearing the names Potter, Riddle, and McGonagall. Worth a wander even if you're not a diehard fan.
Victoria Street
The street widely credited as the inspiration for Diagon Alley. Walking it, you can completely see why — the curved row of colorful shopfronts has an undeniable storybook feel.
Dinner: Pizza Express
Not adventurous, but after a full day of travel and walking, sometimes easy wins. A bottle of Chardonnay helped us relax into the evening.
Nightcap: Herbie More's at the Hilton Carlton
Including, of course, Rob's first Scottish dram.
Day 1 takeaway: Great location, comfortable hotel, lots to see — and a full week ahead of us.
Day 2: Premier League Football, Pub Crawl, and Tailgate Experience in Sunderland
This was one of the experiences we were most excited about before the trip — and the one that surprised us most once we were there.
Neither of us grew up watching English football. Attending a Premier League match was completely outside our normal travel routine. But that's part of why we wanted to do it. Some of the best travel experiences are the ones where you say, "We've never done anything like this before."
Edinburgh → Sunderland
Train: LNER Edinburgh → Newcastle → Sunderland
Cost: £45.50 round trip per person
Our advice: We purchased an LNER Two Together Railcard before the trip — it costs £30 and gives two people traveling together up to 30% off rail fares. Between the Sunderland trip and our later Edinburgh-to-London journey, it paid for itself several times over.
The train itself was comfortable, with assigned seating and beautiful coastal scenery on the way down.
Impromptu Overnight Stay
The match was moved to an 8:00 p.m. kickoff, which made returning to Edinburgh the same night impossible. So we packed an overnight bag, left our main luggage at the Edinburgh hotel, and stayed one night in Sunderland.
Where We Stayed
Premier Inn Sunderland
Walking distance to the Stadium of Light, which was essentially the only requirement given how many hotels were already booked for the Arsenal match.
Exploring Sunderland
We had several hours in Sunderland before the match and spent the afternoon walking around town.
Lunch: The Dun Cow
A proper old pub — cozy atmosphere, good food, good beer. Exactly what you want before a football match.
Drinks: Vesta Tilley's
Hard to miss — the giant Sunderland AFC window display pulled us in.
Match Day: Sunderland AFC vs. Arsenal
Kickoff: 8:00 p.m.
Stadium: Stadium of Light
Tickets: LiveFootballTickets.com — tickets are not easy to come by especially depending on the club you plan to see, plan well ahead.
One thing that surprised us: the pregame atmosphere around the stadium was quieter than we expected compared to major American sporting events. Eventually we found our way to Sheepfold Stables, where supporters were gathering. Over a beer and a slice of pizza, locals started asking where we were from and why we were supporting Sunderland. When they heard we'd traveled from the United States, the conversations got even better.
At one point we asked what people typically do after the match. One supporter gave us possibly the most honest answer imaginable:
"If we win, we go get drunk. If we lose, we go home."
Simple. Efficient. Honest.
Inside the Stadium of Light, the word that comes to mind is intense. The Arsenal supporters were relentless — their chants rarely stopped from kickoff. Both sets of fans created an atmosphere unlike anything we've experienced at an American sporting event.
What struck us most was how focused it all was. No scoreboard prompts telling the crowd when to cheer. No elaborate entertainment during breaks. The supporters created the atmosphere. The football was the show.
Was it worth it?
Absolutely. This side trip met every expectation and then some — the adventure of getting there, enjoying the real world town - outside of the tourist attraction areas of Edinburgh - the atmosphere inside the stadium, and the completely different way of experiencing sport compared to what we're used to at home.
Planning your own Premier League experience? We're putting together a full first-timer's guide: ENGLISH PREMIER LEAGUE GUIDE — COMING SOON
Day 3: Sunderland to Edinburgh — Starting with a Bao Bun in a Back Alley and ending with Whisky & a Taste of Scotland
Sunderland Morning
Breakfast: Pablo Eggsgobao
A breakfast bao bun food truck in a Sunderland back alley. Unexpected, excellent, memorable.
Church: St. Mary's Church, Sunderland
10:30 a.m. mass — one of our travel traditions, and a grounding way to start a Sunday.
Train back: LNER Sunderland → Edinburgh
Departure 12:17 p.m. · Arrival 2:27 p.m.
After getting back to Edinburgh, we rested at the hotel before heading out for our evening plans.
Scotch Whisky Experience + Dinner
Tour: Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile
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The experience is a visually immersive tour through Scotch history and moves into a guided tasting covering the five main whisky regions of Scotland. It's genuinely educational without feeling like a lecture, and the setting — right on the Royal Mile — couldn't be better.
Dinner: Amber Restaurant — A Taste of Scotland
Following the whisky tour, dinner at Amber featured a tasting menu designed to showcase traditional Scottish flavors: smoked trout, haggis bon bons, haggis-stuffed chicken, salmon, veal, and sticky toffee cake.
Honest take: We appreciated the concept, but the combination of so many unfamiliar ingredients in one sitting didn't sit particularly well afterward. If we went back, we'd opt for a set dinner rather than the full tasting menu. Good experience in theory — just know what you're signing up for.
This was a busy day, but it felt full of interesting experiences rather than simply checking things off a list.
Day 4: A Day in the Scottish Highlands - Horses, Castle & Loch Lomond
This was our big Scotland scenery day — and we made a deliberate choice to do it by guided coach rather than renting a car.
Why? Neither of us wanted to spend a vacation day navigating unfamiliar roads on the wrong side of the road. We wanted to look out the window — or nap — while someone else handled the driving.
Tour: Edinburgh: The Kelpies, Stirling Castle, Loch Lomond & The Trossachs
vi.me/c2H4M
Cost: $75 per person
The Kelpies
Photos don't prepare you for the scale of these things. The Kelpies are massive — 30-meter-high horse-head sculptures rising out of the landscape — and standing beneath them gives you a real sense of both the engineering and the artistry involved. We spent a solid amount of time trying to find the right angle for photos. Still not sure we cracked it, but it was fun to try.
Stirling Castle
We purchased tickets and followed the audio tour through the grounds. The exterior architecture and views were genuinely impressive. The interior exhibits, in our opinion, could have done more to bring the history to life — the buildings outshone the displays. Not a regret, but not the highlight of the day either.
Loch Lomond
The loch itself was beautiful, but the village around it was a pleasant surprise. We wandered into a field with a few Highland cows just standing around being magnificent, stopped into the village shop, and ended up at a local restaurant with a beer from Loch Lomond Brewery and chips. Relaxed and exactly what we needed after a few intense travel days.
Overall verdict: 3.5 out of 5. The destinations were solid, the pace was intentionally slow, but what elevated the day was our guide, Deborah — her storytelling, humor, and enthusiasm made the long bus hours genuinely enjoyable. If you're looking for a low-energy day that still gets you out of Edinburgh and into the Scottish landscape, this tour delivers. If you want something more active or adventurous, it may feel too tame.
One note: Loch Ness would have required several additional hours of travel we weren't sure we were up for. If you have more time, it might be worth extending the day’s plans to give it a try - in hindsight, we probably would have.
Day 5: Morning Bag Making in Edinburgh & Afternoon Train to London
Edinburgh Handbag Workshop
Experience: Islander UK
Location: Canongate, Edinburgh
Time: 12:00–1:30 p.m.
Cost: £147 for two people (small bags — prices vary by size)
This wasn't on our original must-do list. It became one of the highlights of the entire trip.
At Islander UK, we created our own custom tartan bags from scratch — choosing the style, colors, and tartan pattern ourselves. Emily made a barrel bag in the Princess Diana tartan. Rob made a toiletry bag. Watching them come together in real time was as satisfying as taking them home.
There's something different about a souvenir you actually made. Those bags will remind us of Scotland specifically — and of the afternoon we spent making them.
Edinburgh → London
Train: LNER Edinburgh Waverley → London King's Cross
Departure: 3:30 p.m. · Arrival: ~8:00 p.m. · Journey: ~4.5 hours
Cost: £45.50 round trip per person
Why fly when you can take a scenic train for a fraction of the cost? No airport security, no baggage claim, and you arrive directly in central London. The coastal scenery on the way out of Edinburgh alone is worth it.
While the train ride was long, it was nice to have space to relax and reflect on the trip and what we had ahead of us. The costal scenery out the window was beautiful - water, cliffs and lots of sheep! We saved money on the tickets using our 2 Together Railcard and the logistics were pretty easy to navigate. We had assigned seats on the train so no stressing to find a seat. We booked close to the luggage storage area so we could keep an eye on our bags and it worked out perfectly.
Where We Stayed in London
Hilton London Bankside (South Bank)
We chose this hotel for 2 reasons - Hilton brand (so we could use points) and location — close to the London Underground (Southwark Station) and walkable to the South Bank / River Thames.
Day 6: Warner Bros. Harry Potter Studio Tour
Harry Potter has been a big part of our lives — we've read the books, done the Wizarding World at Universal, seen Cursed Child on Broadway. So visiting the Warner Bros. Studio Tour was always going to be on this trip. We were especially lucky to visit on the very first day of the Dark Arts seasonal feature.
Tour (includes coach from Victoria): vi.me/ttPSN
Cost: $305 for two people (transportation + entry)
What the Studio Tour is Actually Like
The studio tour is a behind-the-scenes film exhibition: original sets, authentic props and costumes, filmmaking details, and insight into the enormous creative effort that brought the books to life. Thousands of artists, designers, engineers, and technicians built this world — and walking through it, that scale becomes clear.
The Dark Arts feature added a few additional elements — Death Eater appearances, atmospheric lighting, a stamp booklet to complete throughout the tour. The booklet was a fun touch that kept the visit interactive.
Our Honest Take
We enjoyed it — but we want to be upfront about expectations, because they matter here.
The studio tour and Universal's Wizarding World are selling completely different experiences:
Universal Orlando Wizarding World of Harry Potter gives you immersion. You're inside the world — rides, Butterbeer, shops, characters, atmosphere. It feels like Harry Potter.
The Studio Tour shows you how it was made. Sets, props, costumes, filmmaking craft. It's more museum than theme park.
If you're going because you want to see the real sets and original props, it's genuinely fascinating. If you're expecting the magic of Universal, adjust your expectations before you go.
For us — coming in as people who love both theme parks and the wizarding world — it didn't fully land the way we'd hoped. It was crowded, and the Dark Arts additions were lighter than we expected. We're glad we went. We probably wouldn't plan an entire London trip around going again.
Was it worth the money?
At $305 for two including transportation, it was the most expensive single experience of the trip. Based on how we felt afterward, we wouldn't call it a strong value. But that's our experience. If you're a deep Harry Potter fan who wants to see the original Great Hall and hold a replica wand in the actual Defense Against the Dark Arts classroom, you may feel completely differently.
"If you've done Universal Orlando Wizarding World of Harry Potter, know that this is something else entirely. Different, not better or worse — just different."
Day 7: Queen Elizabeth Exhibit + Afternoon Tea + London Exploration
Today was a London mashup. Because why choose between royal history and Harry Potter when you can do both?
Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style
The King's Gallery, Buckingham Palace
Time: 12:00 p.m.
Cost: £44 for two people
Book this early. We were scrambling about a month out and nearly missed our chance — tickets are inexpensive but genuinely difficult to get.
We booked through the ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST — note: check dates, this exhibit is not permanent and is currently set to end April 202.
This was one of our favorite experiences of the entire trip.
Walking through rooms of the late Queen's wardrobe — from childhood through her adult life, formal gowns to state visit outfits to the signature hat-purse-coat combinations of later years — felt unexpectedly moving. We were inches away from the personal wardrobe of one of the most recognized figures in modern history.
Our daughter's degree is in fashion, which made the attention to design detail and the featured designers even more meaningful. We overheard someone say, "It's amazing to think that she actually wore all of these clothes." That was exactly how it felt.
Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason
From Buckingham Palace, we walked to Fortnum & Mason at the Royal Exchange for afternoon tea — this was a tip we saw online as the afternoon tea at this location is about half the price of the main London location. We didn't have a reservation because we weren’t sure what time we would get there, but we’d recommend a reservation as we almost didn’t get seated. Luckily, a table opened up and we were able to squeeze in. A three-tier stand arrived: finger sandwiches, pastries, sweets, freshly baked scones with clotted cream and preserves. Tea, of course.
Unlike sitting down to a regular meal, the tea was an experience. The pace was intentional. Nobody seemed rushed. It wasn't just about the food — it was about slowing down and actually being present.
In a trip full of movement, it was one of the most memorable two hours we spent.
Evening Adventure around London
We didn’t have specific plans for the afternoon, but we got a few ideas from our guidebook London in Stride, which is a walking tour book throughout the different areas of London. That evening we visited Covent Garden, the National Portrait Gallery, Camden and SoHo in a whirlwind evening adventure.
Want ideas to spend a few hours seeing different areas of London? EXPLORING LONDON WITH NO PLAN — COMING SOON
Day 8: Richmond & Ted Lasso
If you're a Ted Lasso fan, Richmond is worth the detour.
Getting There
We made the journey itself an adventure: Underground to Westminster → Uber Boat along the Thames to Putney → train to Richmond. A little longer than the direct route, but the river section was a highlight on its own.
The Prince's Head (The Crown & Anchor)
Our first stop was the Prince's Head — the pub used as the exterior of the Crown & Anchor in Ted Lasso. Standing outside felt oddly familiar. So many scenes were filmed here that it felt like stepping onto a set.
It was crowded around the pub and down the alley where the Ted Lasso pop-up shop is located, which is a testament to how much the show resonates. We had a drink outside before exploring the shop and wandering the neighborhood.
The White Swan — The Cutest Pub of the Trip
Later in the afternoon, we walked to the White Swan — a recommendation from our guidebook London in Stride.
It quickly earned a spot at the top of our list of favorite pubs from the entire trip. Located at the end of a quiet street, it had everything we'd come to appreciate about British pubs: beautiful exterior, warm atmosphere, friendly service, and a hidden garden tucked behind the building.
Inside, an older chocolate Labrador named Mari appeared to be perfectly content serving as the unofficial greeter. She reminded us of our dog Maui and made us feel immediately at home.
The setting was relaxed and authentic — a complete contrast to the busy pubs of central London and Edinburgh. We could have stayed all afternoon.
Dinner: El Pastor, London Bridge
Back near London Bridge, we ended the day at El Pastor. Small plates, shared between us — but what we're still talking about are the margaritas.
After a day that included a Thames boat ride, a Ted Lasso pilgrimage, two pubs, and a hidden garden, the margaritas felt completely earned.
Travel guides are great at telling you what you should see. What they don't always tell you is what you'll actually remember.
Sometimes it's a world-famous palace. Sometimes it's a football match. And sometimes it's a dog named Mari at the end of a quiet street in Richmond.
Day 9: Daytime Flight London to Home
Heathrow → EWR | British Airways Premium Economy
The trip home left around 11am so we weren’t overly rushed in the morning. Although we could have taken the Underground tube system to the airport, we decided to splurge on an Uber since we both had maxed out weight bags and didn’t want to lug them while navigating the subway system.
We arrived back to Newark, NJ around 2pm - and thanks to our Timeshifter app, we had very minimal jet lag.
Planning your own UK trip? We're pulling the highlights of this post into a summary of favorites, what we’d do again, what we’d change and the ROI of trip to PTO days: UK TRIP HIGHLIGHTS AND VACATION ROI — COMING SOON
Final Thoughts
This trip was a mix of splurges and smart savings, including using over 400,000 Hilton points to cover a big chunk of our hotel stays. But that's one of the things we love most about travel. You don't need three weeks off or an unlimited budget. You work with what you have — take the vacation days, pick the experiences that fit the vibes you’re looking for, splurge where it's worth it, save where it isn't.
And then you commit to it. Book it. Plan it. Enjoy it!
We're not retired. We're just living retired while working and not waiting for someday to enjoy our passion for travel.
Save this post for when you're ready to plan your own Scotland and London adventure. Questions about anything we did — where we stayed, how we got around, what was worth it or what we'd skip — send us a message. Keep an eye out for more posts on this trip where we get into the details!
🇬🇧 PLAN THIS TRIP
Where We Stayed
Hilton Edinburgh Carlton · Premier Inn Sunderland · Hilton London Bankside
Trains
LNER · Two Together Railcard
Premier League
Highlands Tour
Viator — Kelpies, Stirling, Loch Lomond
Harry Potter Studios
Viator — coach + entry
King's Gallery
Royal Collection Trust
Islander Bag Workshop
Islander UK
Airport Transport
Airlink 100 — Edinburgh